17 April 2008

Indi Watan

We were invited to a party to celebrate Abu Ahmed and his family’s departure for the United States.

Basima's sister and her husband, Abu Ali, prepared masgouf, a traditional Iraqi dish of carp staked to the ground and roasted before an open fire until crispy on the outside, but soft, juicy and tender inside. Usually the carp comes fresh from the Euphrates or Tigris. These days, the carp comes from Syria or somewhere from the Gulf. The dish is served with fire-roasted eggplant blended into a thick sauce, vegetables, pickles and plenty of flatbread.

After the meal, we sat in the sitting room. Abu Ali poured traditional Iraqi tea for us – served in small tea glasses. Ali, the eldest son usually entertains the guests after dinner with poetry and songs.

Tonight he sang a song that has become extremely popular among Iraqis, especially those living abroad – Indi Watan, by Husam Al Rasam, an Iraqi singer recently famed for his songs describing loss and longing for home and country in Iraq.

That night Ali sang in a southern-Iraqi style voice – strong and full, pushed deep from the throat, and straight from his heart. David and I looked around and noticed small tears in Om Ahmed’s eyes and in the eyes of her sister. Even Abu Ahmed and Abu Ali were unable to hold their composure. One song reminded them of so much.

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