10 April 2008

Beyond expectations

Like many fellow Americans, my understanding of Iraqis and Iraqi culture has been through the lens of the American media.

It is my first week in the Middle East region and already my preconceived notions are washed away by the generous warmth and hospitality of both Jordanians and Iraqis. I wasn’t expecting arms as open as we’ve experienced. To be honest, I was a bit unsure of how things would go.

On our flight here, I was a bit anxious when it hit me that I was going to be so far away from home for such an extended period. How would Iraqis treat me? Would their memories of war make them distrust me as an American? I really wasn’t too sure what to expect.

Since our arrival we have met with several Iraqi friends. Their hospitality has been almost more overwhelming than their stories. They have opened up to us and are sharing their stories of survival, war, and tragedy.

While their stories are heartbreaking, they maintain a smiling face and a bright sense of humor towards us. Our Iraqi friends wait here in Amman, either lingering with uncertainty or waiting for a letter granting them resettlement in the US. This wait is long and devoid of any assurance they will be able to settle somewhere in safe hands. During this time they are not permitted to work or drive. Some are even afraid to leave their temporary apartments. Most spend their time with families at home while living off their precious savings.

Jordan is not what I had expected.

Amman is the fastest growing economy and city I have ever seen in my life. Construction is everywhere from high-rises, hotels, supermarkets, and mega-malls. It feels like a new world dawns upon us. While the economy in the US suffers, Jordan is SKYROCKETING! The malls and shopping areas are full of US businesses. One’s guess would be if anyone has gained fiscal benefits from the war, it would be Jordan.

The newer modernized buildings divide the city to one side, leaving Amman’s downtown area looking old and underdeveloped. A generation has embraced this new modernized part of Amman where young people fill its malls, stores and restaurants like KFC, Starbucks, and even Applebee’s (which I didn’t think even existed anymore). Some citizens feel this modernization threatens the essence of Muslim society.

At this point I can only really say that being here will be no less than a life changing experience, as an American, filmmaker and musician. I’ve posted a short song that I recording a few days ago here on my laptop. It has an electronic vibe to it - I guess reflecting on the way I feel here. Hope you like it.

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